Making the Best with Less in Armenia

Doctorate survives on $135 a month

YEREVAN—Artsvi Bakhchinyan represents your typical young working class in Armenia.

Vendor peddles his books at Vernisage, looking to eke out a living. (Photo by Tom Vartabedian)
Vendor peddles his books at Vernisage, looking to eke out a living. (Photo by Tom Vartabedian)

Armed with a doctorate degree, he earns a “whopping” $135 a month as a researcher in art history and Diasporan matters for the National Academy Institute of History in Yerevan.

The fact he’s married with three children only heightens the responsibility.

“It’s a living,” says the 38-year-old. “I’m among the more fortunate. At least I have a job and my children aren’t starving. That’s how we live—modestly and economically.”

The salary hardly substantiates the hours or nature of his work. Forty hours would be a premium. To help make ends meet, he also writes books and sings in a choir. His wife is a ceramics artist and treats it more as a hobby than a profession.

“The situation is often dire and frustrating,” he adds. “I’m not one to complain. The political developments over the past year in Armenia are not good. We’re in an economic downswing and I don’t see an end.”

Artsvi is his own valuable resource when it comes to documenting the history of Armenian communities in the Diaspora. Included in the research are Armenians in the Scandinavian countries such as Sweden where he lived a decade ago as an invited researcher.

The end result was a vital program connecting Armenians to the Scandinavian countries.

“There’s a big population there, more than people think,” he confirms. “In Sweden, there are approximately 5,000 Armenians, Denmark has 2,000 while Norway and Finland have 1,000 each.”

Shoemakers do a bustling business in Stepanagert. (Photo by Tom Vartabedian)
Shoemakers do a bustling business in Stepanagert. (Photo by Tom Vartabedian)

A smile crosses his face with the next statistic—one Armenian family in Iceland, a woman from Aleppo named Berjouhi Papazian who married a fellow from that country.

“I’m a typical kind of researcher who feels an obligation for his people without thinking about pay,” he admits. “What bothers me more than anything is the future of my children. What will the country be like when they’re out looking for jobs?”

Although conditions have improved in the infrastructure, it’s not the same with families and employment opportunities. With a 60 percent unemployment rate, it’s become the survival of the fittest in Armenia.

Many are driving taxis and doing menial work to gain sustenance. Ten miles outside of Yerevan, there is little or no economic structure. People are living from hand to mouth. No one talks about leaving their land. Yerevan boasts a million population. The loyalty is relentless and the people remain resilient.

“I’ve traveled a lot and been to America,” said Artsvi. “The situation is bleak there as well. We have to do lots of jobs to maintain our families. There is no plan on how to improve the life of our ordinary population. We must become a democratic society. Right now, there‘s no structure in place.”

The construction projects Artsvi sees in his city may be beneficial for tourism and the fancy free but disturbing to those like himself. He sympathizes with the destitute.

Shopowner in Oojan waits for a customer in her "khanoot." (Photo by Tom Vartabedian)
Shopowner in Oojan waits for a customer in her "khanoot." (Photo by Tom Vartabedian)

“The poor are being driven to the countryside where living conditions are not all that good,” he points out. “They’re barely surviving. Conditions are expected to worsen. Armenia expects 100,000 to return from Russia over the next year, due to restrictions in that country. That’ll only heighten the poverty level here. Unfortunately, the new generation is being educated with false values. Our culture is being degraded.”

In 2001, during the 1700th anniversary of Armenian Christianity, Georgia had more tourism than Armenia, according to Artsvi. He sees it as a telltale sign that although tourism is beneficial and Armenia relies heavily upon this, it isn’t a panacea by any stretch.

“Tourism is fine,” he agrees, “but not enough to change the way of Armenian society. A little country like Georgia is doing a better job in promoting tourism than Armenia.”

Artsvi is quick to admit that talent isn’t everything. He feels Armenians should be more clever than talented and takes exception with the government for selling his country’s national treasures to foreigners like Russia. A proverb comes to mind.

“A poor one is poor for his intellect.”

The optimistic side sees a nation of progressive individuals like himself destined to change the ways of the land with perseverance and sound objectives. But then, there’s also the pessimist in him.

“One thing that will never be deprived is my dignity, my heritage,” he says. “But that won’t pay the bills.”

Tom Vartabedian

Tom Vartabedian

Tom Vartabedian is a retired journalist with the Haverhill Gazette, where he spent 40 years as an award-winning writer and photographer. He has volunteered his services for the past 46 years as a columnist and correspondent with the Armenian Weekly, where his pet project was the publication of a special issue of the AYF Olympics each September.
Tom Vartabedian

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7 Comments

  1. The article is heartbreaking but doesn’t tell us what we can do to help improve the lives of so many.

  2. Heartbreaking that we are one of the most successful group in diaspora countries and the ancient homeland of our ancestors is a land without opportunity or a decent standard of living. Reporting bad news and not having even one suggestion on how Armenians worldwide can help is frustrating.

    Asking for honest reporting, what is the socio-economic climate in Armenia today? I, and many other Armenians would like to know. Why do you not write a series on Conditions in Armenia: Politically, Economically, “the Powerful individuals and groups in Armenia”…etc the guts of the country today is needed because all efforts come from understanding first!

    The film Return to Armenia (French, 2006) did not paint a pretty picture at all. Control and traffiking of medical supplies for profit, gangster groups controlling many economic markets, squalor and poverty, AND the ever suffering Armenian taxi driver. This is a poor image of Armenia and the young will continue to leave for France, Canada, Sweden, ANYWHERE but thre to have an opportunity to make a life and earn a living.

    If its political, millions of armenians worldwide can bring pressure to bear from our contacts and international influence and power to reach top statesman. BUT, without knowledge, what can we do or ask anyone else to do?

    May I dare suggest that YOU may have a responsibility to report the truth in-depth so that Armenians and their friends worldwide can act on it. Thank you.

    With Best Regards,

    Daniel Maroutian-Remy

    Citizen of France and USA
    and proud Armenian ancestry

  3. I forgot ONE veyy important point that would show what Armenian action can do.
    I am speaking of the millions of dollars and the thousands who have demonstrated for recognition of the Genocide. It is history, it is true, my ancestors lost most of our family in Kharput in 1915, it was hell! BUT, why can we not put the same energy in helping Armenia and Armenians who live there TODAY!! The past is gone for almost a century now. Armenians are living in the worst opression on mankind-POVERTY. Monetary contributions are helpful but like the proverb are a Fish today instead of a Fishing Pole for the future. Armenians have intelligence and love for Armenia. LET US CONCENTRATE
    AND UNITE TO FIX ARMENIA TODAY in Armenia itself and let the history books speak for themselves. Our PRIORITY is LIVING ARMENIANS AND THEIR CHILDREN today. I hope that my comment is viewed as the appeal to reason and not a minimization of the Genocide that I also grew up with. But, we must concentrate and unite fort Armenia and influencing constructive change now.

    Thank You

  4. Move to Armenia, start a business there, and put people to work. It’s that simple. I don’t know why diasporan Armenians understand this simple, effective solution to “improve the lives of so many.”

  5. the 60% unemployment figure is not correct, that number is in the teens.  The 60% figure was during the 90s, especially the mid 90s.

    I sympathize with Paron Bakhchinyan, and agree that young Armenians are not being taught properly when it comes to morals.  This is the case in the Diaspora as well, where too many youngsters would rather fit in with the host country than be proud and stay true to their Armenian roots.

  6. I have been too genteel in my input. My questions are simply: Is Armenia today suffering from the Political and Social dysfunctions controlling and choking the Armenian economy with graft? Are the foreign aid monetary contributions going mostly to military regional defense? Are the individual monetary charitable contributions by Armenians worldwide being managed honestly and by competent administrators to truly improve the population? Are the medical supplies going directly to the hospitals, or are there middlemen taking their cut?

    Many countries in South America and the Middle East have this two tier economy and society. The 2% extremely wealthy and powerful; and, the 98 % who are extremely poor. Is Armenia a young America; or, is it an old middle eastern sultan-peasant society model? Is there a compulsory two year service for the young to do social and medical work and learn about poverty and injustices in their society? (as a note, the USA could use a national Peace Corps to make the young people realize that life is not just hip-hop and pop!).

    I am a VietNam veteran and a former international executive. I am much too old to start a business in Armenia. BUT, I am a man of influence and accomplishment and wise about the world. I simply ask, what is the overall reality of Armenian politics and economics today? More importantly, I am asking who controls the POWER in Armenia today? We let the financial sector have most of the monetary power in the USA and look at the catastrophic results? And lastly, I ask: How much influence does the Russian mob and local gangsters have in Armenia and if so, does Armenia have a serious police effort to control this social desease?

    I am a REALIST. If Armenia has these parasitic problems, then LOCAL police enforcement programs must start to clean these up. Mexico cannot clean up their narcotics mess because of the drug cartels having better weapons than the police and they have local control of the people through fear and feed. A little food in one hand and a big fist in the other hand.

    Armenians must ask the HARD questions! Write letters to Armenian officials that politics and foreign policy is not their main job. Armenia must focus on the Armenian people. Only an egalitarian and democatic society can provide the opportunities to create and maintain a middle class.

    On local industries? Look at Ireland! Armenia is an excellent wine growing region and the wine consumption worldwide has grown tremendously. Instead of the continuous battle with the neighboors, negotiate trade routes to the sea and promote Armenian wines. If it is good (and France will gladly contribute the vines), then it will sell. Computer software is an a huge intangible goods worldwide market requiring little capital and great return on investment. Tourism is good, but it is mostly Armenians doing their trip to Mecca only to return home to their families where they belong. Others come, sympathize, love the people and also have to go home to their families. Few Armenians can simply move there. And if one can, my last IMPORTANT question: Is the road clear to start a business there;OR, is it a cluttered road of bureaucracy and grafty hands?

    These are the questions that will provide the answers on what needs to be done. Give us the honest journalistic answers and we will respond and do the best we can given the real and actual situation in Armenia. God bless all.

  7. What we can do ? get the crooks out of the government and possibly go back to our land. As long as Serge is president with his mob, I will not return to Armenia. I came to the US back in 1991 from Yerevan and have visited few times and have many friends who do business in Armenia  – All I can say is -Armenian gov is a big Karbakh Mob – they are not even Armenian patriots and will sell our land to the damn turks in the end. Sad but true. The only way we can make things better or change for the better is kick this short crooks out of office and put real Armenians in the government.
     
     

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