All roads lead to Armenia: Chapter II (Nice)

In January 2024, we explored Paris, the French capital, discovering remarkable Armenian landmarks such as the Nubar Library, the equestrian statue of General Andranik and the incredible restaurant “La Maison de la Culture Arménienne.” Today, we find ourselves in Nice on the French Riviera, which is renowned for its stunning Mediterranean beaches, vibrant arts scene, charming historic old town (Vieux Nice) and the breathtaking Promenade des Anglais.

The Armenian presence in Nice dates back to the early 20th century, when thousands fled the horrors of the Armenian Genocide. Torn from their beloved homeland, they arrived in France seeking safety, carrying with them nothing but resilience and hope. 

Many settled in Paris or Marseille, but some chose Nice, the fifth-largest city in France. Over the years, they became an integral part of French society, contributing through business, arts, academia and civic life. Though they embraced France as their new home, they never forgot their past, their culture, their history, their ancestors and their heritage. Today, the Armenian community in Nice numbers around 5,000, and their contribution can be seen throughout the city.

Let’s start our visit to Nice at the Armenian Épicerie Ararat, located at N°7 Boulevard François Grosso. Just a five-minute walk from the beach, this grocery store offers a wide selection of Armenian products, spices, seasonings and traditional ingredients. Known for bringing the authentic taste of Armenia to the local community, shoppers can find everything to satisfy their taste buds.

For some, these herbs and spices are just ordinary scents, but for many Armenians, they evoke unforgettable memories — moments of laughter, the warmth of a grandmother’s touch and family stories shared over a cooking pot. Every aroma carries the weight of love, loss and the promise of home. The Épicerie Ararat brings a slice of Armenian culinary culture to Nice, making it an essential stop for anyone looking to explore the rich flavors of Armenia.

We continue our exploration of Nice in the Jardin de l’Arménie (Garden of Armenia), which is a stunning public garden nestled between the Promenade des Anglais and the city’s pedestrian zone. This meaningful and inspirational tribute to Armenia underwent a major renovation completed in May 2024. The project included planting 97 trees, adding 900 square meters of permeable surfaces to create a cooling refuge and using light-colored paving materials to mitigate the summer heat. 

During the inauguration ceremony, Mischa Aznavour, the son of the late Charles Aznavour, was present to unveil a four-meter-high aluminum sculpture of the legendary singer, created by artist Marcos Marin. The Jardin de l’Arménie is not only a beautiful and peaceful place for relaxation, but it is also a solemn space dedicated to all the victims of the Armenian Genocide, inviting locals and visitors to remember this horrific chapter of our history.

After walking around the Jardin de l’Arménie, let us go to another neighborhood of Nice to discover the Église Arménienne Sainte-Marie de Nice. This beautiful Armenian Apostolic church, located at N°281 Boulevard de la Madeleine, serves as a spiritual and cultural site for the local Armenian community. The church’s construction began with the laying of its foundation stone on August 17, 1927, and it was consecrated in January 1928 by Monseigneur Krikor Balakian, the bishop of the Armenians in Marseille at the time.

Beyond its role as a place of worship, the church is a vibrant center for Armenian culture, hosting various events that celebrate Armenian traditions. This makes the Église Arménienne Sainte-Marie de Nice an important landmark for anyone interested in exploring the cultural heritage of Armenia in Nice.

We continue our journey along the hillsides of Nice, making our way to the peaceful Caucade Cemetery. Many distinguished and influential individuals are buried here, but our purpose is to visit the grave of a remarkable Armenian physician and educator. Born on July 11, 1857, in Iran, Minas Manook Basil studied at the Armenian College in Calcutta, India, where it was clear that he possessed an uncommon ability to learn, think and innovate.

As a graduate of the prestigious University of Edinburgh, Scotland, he excelled in anatomy, surgery, pediatrics and chemistry. After practicing medicine in several English and Scottish cities, Dr. Basil returned to Persia via Constantinople in 1889 to become a professor at Dar ul-Funun College. For 22 years, he taught hundreds of students, shaping seven generations of doctors with his brilliance. His achievements led him to become a renowned member of the Royal Medical Society and the author of numerous medical articles and publications. Dr. Basil passed away on July 19, 1922, in Nice, leaving behind a lasting and significant legacy.

It’s time to conclude our wonderful day in Nice at N°40 Boulevard Risso, where an exceptional dinner awaits. Situated in the heart of the city, the restaurant Armavir offers a delightful experience of Armenian culture through its outstanding cuisine. The name “Armavir” refers to a historic city in Armenia, reflecting the restaurant’s deep connection to Armenian heritage.

Run by the Karapetian family, the restaurant serves authentic Armenian dishes such as khorovats (grilled chicken or grilled pork marinated with spices), tolma (vine leaves stuffed with rice and meat), omelette pamidor (eggs with tomatoes and peppers) and lahmajune (Armenian flatbread topped with spiced minced meat). The menu is crafted with fresh, high-quality ingredients, providing a true taste of Armenia. The ambiance, with its warm and inviting decor, further enhances the experience, making it a perfect place to enjoy the rich and diverse flavors of Armenian food. The restaurant Armavir is open Tuesday to Saturday from 7:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.

With its storied heritage, France’s Armenian community and sites await you.

To read Chapter I of this series, click here.