My family went abroad to Italy for a week, visiting major cities including Rome and Florence. We also planned a day trip to Venice.
My Armenian heritage is extremely important to me. In Italy, I investigated traces of Armenian influence, looking for restaurants and more. In Florence, for instance, we visited an Armenian restaurant called Ararat Restaurant & Wine Bar, enjoying Armenian wine and cuisine in one of Italy’s largest cities.
To my surprise, I also discovered that there is an island off the coast of Italy called San Lazzaro degli Armeni. The island was gifted to Mekhitar, an Armenian Catholic monk, by Doge Alvise Mocenigo. Over the years, it has had many acclaimed visitors such as Lord Byron, who visited the island a few times a week for six months.
As of today, only a handful of monks live on the island, and most of the visitors are not Armenian. To visit, one has to call the monks in advance, requesting permission to join one of the monastery’s daily tours. Venturing to the island requires one to board Vaporetto No. 20 from San Zaccaria. Alongside my mother and two brothers, I boarded the boat with excitement, sailing towards a slice of Armenian culture right off the coast of Venice. Upon our arrival, we met with a man named Levon, who kindly showed us around the monastery and the accompanying church. We also stopped in the courtyard, reveling in the architecture and beautiful scenery. One particular highlight was the monastery’s manuscript collection. Composed of over 3,000 volumes, it is one the largest collections of Armenian manuscripts in the world. The first complete Armenian language dictionary was created on the island as well.
Many Armenians hold weddings at San Lazzaro degli Armeni, celebrating their love on an island that exemplifies the longevity and resilience of the Armenian people. The same week I visited San Lazarro degli Armeni, an Armenian friend posted wedding pictures from the island to his Instagram story. It was heartwarming to see so many Armenians congregate on the island in celebration of a new Armenian union.
Visiting San Lazarro degli Armeni was a touching and special experience. As an Armenian student, I have moved across the country numerous times to pursue my studies in different states. I spent my undergraduate years at Columbia University in New York and moved to the Boston area to start my studies at Harvard Law School. Each time, I have received a warm welcome from members of the Armenian community. However, visiting a new country and finding an entire island dedicated to the Armenian people reinforced the often cited William Saroyan quote: “Where two Armenians meet, they make a new Armenia.” Our culture not only spans eons, but the world.
It is a privilege to be part of the Armenian diaspora. While my ancestors were displaced by the Genocide, I am consistently reminded that the Armenian community will be alongside me wherever I go — whether I’m in Boston or on an island in Italy.
I so appreciate reading about your visit here, and how easy it is to arrive there. It is a place of fairy tales to me. A family member who was a vartabed lived there, as well as another priest, who became a good friend. ( we became friends when I was five, and he was a newly ordained priest, brought to the US to begin work. I knew of the monastery through them, and it therefore felt like ‘home’ and a safe place.