In 2022, Vahagn Grigoryan embarked on an adventure, founding VAGA Restaurant and Bar, a fusion of the traditional and the contemporary, the Armenian and the Arabic, fine dining and a taste of home. As VAGA’s website states, “Stepping through the elaborate doors is akin to passing through a portal, into a breathtaking landscape of extravagant interiors and bold features.”
It always warms my heart to meet smart, diligent and creative young Armenians who present Armenian culture to international audiences in the best possible way — and Grigoryan is one of these people. As someone who has accomplished so much at such a young age, Grigoryan has a remarkable story that reflects his vision of life and his love for our homeland.
Milena Baghdasaryan (M.B.): What inspired you to establish VAGA Dubai, and why, specifically, in the United Arab Emirates (UAE)?
Vahagn Grigoryan (V.G.): I studied in the UAE, at the American University in Dubai (AUD), and have been living here for eight years. It’s where my entrepreneurial journey started. We established our first company in the UAE, which obtained licensing in the crypto industry and served as a regional representative for a U.S. company. Our crypto licensing was the first of its kind in the region. I have ventured into various fields, but I deeply love the hospitality industry and enjoy showcasing Armenian culture.
My friends would often ask me to talk a little less about Armenia, because I loved sharing stories (perhaps a bit too much). I would tell them about this small but historically rich country in the Caucasus, explaining that it has contributed so much to the world in countless, unexplainable ways. I even jokingly suggested that they might have Armenian roots themselves. I also have a passion for history, especially the Urartian period.
One day, I was thinking about how I could uniquely present this rich history to others. Making money was never the primary goal of my business. I didn’t like how Armenian restaurants were often identified solely by rugs hanging on the walls (even though I’m fond of Armenian carpets). I wanted to create something exclusive and unique. Being in a foreign country, I thought it would be interesting to blend cultures — and that’s how VAGA was born.
VAGA is not an Armenian restaurant but an Urartian one, mixed with Arab influences. My goal was to give my circle of friends and those unfamiliar with or unaware of Armenia a preview of the country. VAGA became that preview.
M.B.: What challenges did you overcome, and what challenges do you face today?
V.G.: We have faced challenges since the very first day, and we continue to do so today. The UAE is a very competitive market. When we first started, there were nearly 13,000 restaurants (and I’m sure there are many more now). We chose fine dining as our niche, because we wanted to demonstrate that Armenians are not just about traditional, homestyle food and drink culture. We can also offer fine dining, where every Armenian dish can be paired with exquisite Italian or French beverages — or even with premium Armenian cognac or wine. Unfortunately, though, Armenian wine is not currently available in Dubai.
When we opened VAGA, we chose Ain Dubai as the location, home to the world’s largest Ferris wheel with thousands of visitors daily. It was expected to ensure a steady flow of customers to VAGA. However, just one month before our opening, the Ferris wheel was closed, drastically reducing foot traffic. This was a significant challenge.
Yet, we have done everything necessary to align VAGA with the written and unwritten rules of the UAE, and I can confidently say that we have succeeded. We’ve built something that stands strong and will continue to do so.
M.B.: Why do you think there are so few Armenian restaurants abroad, despite our large diaspora? In contrast, neighboring countries like Georgia have a strong culinary presence internationally. Why do you think this is the case?
V.G.: In our restaurant, we feature numerous Armenian dishes, such as manti, which every guest, even those already full, feels compelled to try. In my view, the scarcity of Armenian restaurants globally stems from a lack of adaptation in our cuisine. Take our neighbors, the Georgians — they have worked hard to tailor their culinary traditions to meet export standards.
For instance, if Armenian beef isn’t of the highest quality, we should use New Zealand beef. A barbecue made with New Zealand beef turns out tastier than one made with Armenian beef. I say this based on my experience — it’s undeniable. While Armenian beef might be closer to our palate, the truth is that it’s not the best, and instead of being overly conservative, we need to acknowledge this fact and adapt our cuisine accordingly.
Look at the French, Italian and other European cuisines — they’ve all modified and refined their offerings for the global market. The French, for example, source ingredients from all over the world, even as far as Burkina Faso. Meanwhile, Armenians tend to be more conservative, reluctant to alter dishes like dolma or kebab or to incorporate ingredients sourced from abroad.
Over time, even our most traditional dishes may evolve, and we should embrace and even encourage that… Chefs need to travel, explore new, interesting ideas, bring them home and build upon our traditions.
However, in recent years, the development of Armenia’s restaurant industry has brought many positive changes. Several establishments have introduced innovations and adapted their menus to cater to tourists, making our cuisine more diverse.
We shouldn’t fear change. Over time, even our most traditional dishes may evolve, and we should embrace and even encourage that. Our chefs need to champion this evolution. For example, I would love to see a high-quality culinary school established in Armenia. Chefs need to travel, explore new, interesting ideas, bring them home and build upon our traditions.
Armenian cuisine, if studied thoroughly, holds treasures waiting to be rediscovered. When we started our restaurant, we traveled to various villages across Armenia and uncovered some truly delicious dishes. Armenian cuisine is remarkable, full of secrets and flavors unlike anything else in the world. But discovering and presenting it in the best possible light requires effort, and it’s Armenians themselves who must take the lead — not outsiders.
M.B.: Do conflicts ever arise among your multinational staff or guests over the origins of certain dishes?
V.G.: Such cases do occasionally occur, but most guests are more interested in the overall experience. Our staff includes people from Morocco, India, the Philippines, Nigeria, Congo, Armenia, Lebanon, Jordan and Syria. Regardless of their role — whether a dishwasher or the restaurant’s general manager — they are all first introduced to our diverse beverages and dishes from Armenian, Moroccan, Syrian, Lebanese and Persian cuisines. They also learn from our comprehensive guidebook, which explains the names and meanings behind each dish.
Take lahmajoun, for instance. It’s simply dough topped with meat — difficult to definitively say which nation created it first. However, the ingredients, spices and combinations used in the preparation are what can make lahmajoun distinctly Armenian or more Arab, depending on the method, technique and choice of components. For example, at VAGA, the ingredients in our lahmajoun reflect Armenian spices and flavors, making it closer to the Armenian palate but enhanced with modern, rich tastes. This approach minimizes conflicts among chefs and instead fosters creativity and appreciation for diverse culinary traditions.
M.B.: How important is it that the VAGA chefs be Armenian — or do you believe that anyone, regardless of nationality, can prepare Armenian food just as well as an Armenian?
V.G.: Unfortunately, we currently don’t have any Armenian chefs in our kitchen. However, our chefs have visited Armenia, specifically to learn about our cuisine and cooking techniques. They’ve spent time immersing themselves in the unique characteristics of Armenian culinary traditions. For instance, our dolma is made using my mother’s recipe, because she personally taught them how to prepare it.
While I would be thrilled to have Armenian chefs in the kitchen, it’s quite challenging. Our executive chef, who is from a different nationality and background, has already assembled a team and curated the menu. The kitchen primarily operates in Arabic, which also creates a language barrier.
I would love for Armenians to be part of our culinary team, but for now, we rely mostly on skilled chefs from abroad to bring their expertise and dedication to authentically represent Armenian flavors.
M.B.: You mentioned avoiding the rugs. That being said, are there any Armenian design elements or symbols incorporated into the interior?
V.G.: Our branding is entirely based on Urartian symbolism. Additionally, when we designed the restaurant, we incorporated Armenian tuff in both the first and second floors. Armenia has almost all the shades of tuff — 28 in total — and our bar is also inspired by these 28 hues. This means that the darker the shade of the drink, the heavier the drink itself. We have also used Armenian cuneiform symbols in our design.
The Urartians were primarily known for their metalwork and tuff. The Erebuni Fortress, for example, is built from tuff. As a result, our design is rich with Urartian colors like apricot and yellow. When you enter, you feel as though you are stepping into an Urartian world, with metallic ceilings and symbols stuck into the tuff. At the same time, we have kept the design minimalistic to avoid an overwhelming experience, ensuring it aligns with international standards while still staying true to Armenian and Urartian roots.
M.B.: What expansion opportunities do you see for the future?
V.G.: From the beginning, I had a business vision and strategy that the restaurant should be international, not just local. If you pay attention to the location choice, you’ll see that it wasn’t chosen to be some underground place only known to local residents, but rather a place accessible to tourists. The story behind the restaurant is also aligned with this approach.
According to legend, VAGA, the Vagabond (a nomad who wanders, roams and explores), was born during the Urartian period into a wealthy family. He loved to travel, but since his world was small, he quickly grew bored. He went to the Urartian gods and asked for a spear that would allow him to open portals to different time periods and worlds, which they granted him. The most important symbol for us is the spear of VAGA. He opens portals, travels around the world and eventually ends up in the UAE — in Dubai, one of the most innovative places in the world — and opens a restaurant named VAGA.
We envision expanding VAGA to many parts of the world, for instance, France — perhaps VAGA Paris or VAGA Lyon — where it will blend French and Armenian cultures. In Italy, VAGA Rome would combine Armenian and Italian cuisines, and in the U.S., we could open in California or New York, blending Armenian and local cuisines. The list could go on and on.
In VAGA, as part of the general business strategy, every symbol, every word and every nuance has been carefully thought of. Our restaurant’s second floor (we have two floors in total) is called Nonsense. Nonsense represents the transitional space of the portal, where everything is chaotic and out of the ordinary. This is what happens on our second floor, in the club.
M.B.: What advice would you give to younger Vahagn who was just starting in the restaurant business?
V.G.: My father has a great saying: “If you do something well, whatever it might be, something great will come out of it.” Don’t start a restaurant purely for financial gain, even though that’s an important aspect. You need to do something that will resonate with people, something that will be of value to you and others.
Start small and take small steps towards bigger goals. Right now, it’s very difficult. There are many concepts out there, and it’s hard to find something truly unique. But with a good team and the right strategy and passion, it will turn out well.
M.B.: Now that we’ve reflected on the past, what’s your vision for the future? Where do you see yourself and VAGA in 10 years?
V.G.: I want to share the Armenian culture in different parts of the world, in line with VAGA’s legend. I want people to come and say, “I followed the footsteps of VAGA when opening my own restaurant.” I hope that VAGA can become a successful, inspiring example for others to follow.
Ain Dubai reopened on Thursday, December 26. For more information on VAGA Restaurant and Bar, check out their website.
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