From the forests of Fastov to Armenia’s mountains: Viktoriia Haryacha’s journey “home”
It was a windy evening, atypical of Yerevan’s warm autumn. I arrived at Viktoriia Haryacha’s house, a Ukrainian woman who works as a tour guide in Armenia, and was immediately offered her delicious profiteroles, which made our conversation all the more enjoyable.
Born in the city of Fastov, in the Kyiv region, Viktoriia spent her childhood in the lush forests of her homeland, enjoying colorful landscapes full of wild berries and the aroma of bread baking nearby. Her father, a well-known surgeon, died young, leaving the family to face life alone. Despite these challenges, Viktoriia graduated from school and university in Ukraine and worked as a manager and sommelier.
“I love exploring wines, guessing their type, harvest period and age. I really enjoyed that period of working in the wine store,” Viktoriia recalled. “But once my Armenian friend Lusine, whom I spent my childhood with, asked me to join her in Armenia, I came — and that’s how it all started.”
It was 2012, and all Viktoriia remembers from her four-day journey is that every Armenian house she visited with her friend was overflowing with food — a way of expressing love and hospitality; demonstrating that every guest is valued.
“I ate a lot — like, really a lot. I was impressed, but at the same time shocked, because people here sometimes buy so much food and then they have to deal with it. I think we should understand how to manage this kind of Armenian hospitality,” Viktoriia laughed.
The four-day trip became fateful. At the time, she was new to Facebook, and after posting a photo from Cascade’s cafés, she received a message from her future husband: “Oh, and how is Armenia?” A year later, Viktoriia married Suren.
“I was at a wedding party in Armenia, and at some point, it started to become too much. I called Suren and told him I had escaped the wedding. We started talking, visiting places like Noravank and Khor Virap,” she recalled.
It has now been 11 years since Viktoriia began working in tourism in Armenia. Speaking carefully and endearingly about her journey, she said, “We are not a rich country; we don’t have a sea.”
“I came to Armenia with my child from my first marriage,” Viktoriia explained. It was not an easy decision; she had a perfect apartment and a job she loved. “But then I thought, ‘I don’t want to be alone,’ and Suren is such an amazing person. He is kind, responsible — I loved him and Armenia.”
Viktoriia and Suren started giving tours after a friend asked them to visit tourist sites in the country. To deepen her knowledge, Viktoriia read books about Armenian history, famous places and notable figures. Their friends were impressed by her expertise, and she enjoyed explaining and showing the many sites so much that she decided to pursue a career in tourism.
“I attended courses for tour guides,” Viktoriia stated. “I researched this country and fell in love with it. I wanted to get a certificate as a professional tour guide, which is very important to me, because it ensures I provide precise information about our country.”
Viktoriia never hires a driver; she prefers to drive herself. You can often spot her in her minivan, ushering people from Lori to Syunik, meticulously explaining the Armenia she loves. She said she feels at home, even when away from Yerevan.
Viktoriia has made many friends throughout the country, creating a community of people ready to help if needed. Once, while in Syunik, she had a car problem. She called a friend, who then contacted his son in the village of Tatev; he came and fixed everything.
“Armenia is about people; this country is amazing because of its people. I never worry here when something happens because our people are so kind, reliable and willing to help — no matter what situation they are in.”
Viktoriia has two daughters. She named her second Biayna, inspired by Biainili, the ancient name of Urartu. In Armenia, she feels that her children can be safe even when they are at school or kindergarten.
“Recently, I went to Ukraine to sell our house. I was with my sister, who is so lovely and she did everything to make me feel comfortable. But I couldn’t stay; I wanted to come home.”
Organizing this meeting with Viktoriia was a challenge, as she is often traveling across Armenia. Yet, her busy life — full of adventure, community and deep passion for Armenia — made the wait worthwhile.
Many people love Armenia, but few explore it as extensively as Viktoriia does. Sometimes, even for Armenians born and raised in the country, a guide like Viktoriia can offer a fresh perspective, reminding us of the country’s beauty and helping us fall in love with it again.
