Throughout the centuries, people have found shelter and even homes in the massive cluster of caves in the town of Goris in southern Armenia. Today, Jirayr Martirosyan, a 67-year-old local painter, has turned one of those caves into an art gallery.
“I cleaned it and fixed the ground myself. I’m keeping it humble, though, just in its own color,” Martirosyan explained from his dark and damp yet charming workplace.
He says it felt “only natural,” considering the town’s stone buildings topped by red roofs, all set against a backdrop of majestic mountains. After years of painting near the caves, he decided to turn one of them into a source of colorful art. It was opened to visitors in 2016.
“My journey began in the seventh grade when I discovered my passion for painting,” he said. The renowned local painter received his higher education at the Terlemezyan State College of Fine Arts in Yerevan before moving to Moscow to enroll at the Moscow Art Institute.
After Martirosyan submitted a request, the municipality let him transform an uninhabited cave into a vibrant gallery littered with art. This transformation not only preserved the cave’s historical essence but also breathed new life into the space, making it a unique venue for showcasing the city’s artistic talent.
However, settling in his native town of Goris as an artist came with challenges. Cultural life in the border city is imbalanced, lacking cultural centers and individuals who can foster a vibrant atmosphere compared to the capital city. The focus on security and border protection amid ongoing conflicts between Armenia and Azerbaijan forces artists to confront harsh realities.
The threat of war is a challenge, but it does not stop local artists. “We hang pictures on the wall under the constant threat of an impending war, but it doesn’t break our hope,” shared 37-year-old Marine Dalunc who works with Martirosyan at a gallery in downtown Goris.
The gallery was set up in 2020, the same year Azerbaijan attacked Artsakh. After it occupied a large part of the region, Azerbaijan’s attention was drawn to the Syunik province of Armenia. Those 44 days of war took all people to the frontline, and artists weren’t exceptions. While Martirosyan served in the war, Dalunc and other coworkers took care of the gallery.
“During war or after it, we kept our spirits full of hope for the future. Now we are even more driven to work and develop our city in all ways,” Dalunc said.
“Art is universal”
As the art department manager of the Goris municipality, 57-year-old Armine Hovakimyan offered a poignant perspective on the city’s cultural resilience. In 2017, Goris was declared the second cultural capital of Armenia.
Despite this recognition, Hovakimyan acknowledges the ongoing challenges. “We bear many responsibilities while living under the constant threat of war, given our neighbor’s relentless provocations,” she said.
Continued Azerbaijani troop advances and border skirmishes illustrate Azerbaijan’s aggressive posture in the region, contributing to an environment of uncertainty and fear for Armenia. Despite the hurdles, Hovakimyan values the role of cultural figures, whose creativity and vision “contribute to the city’s vibrancy and uniqueness.”
“We hang pictures on the wall under the constant threat of an impending war, but it doesn’t break our hope.”
The department she leads plays a vital role in supporting the arts by funding exhibitions for both younger and older generations of artists. She hopes this initiative will foster greater collaboration between generations and enrich the artistic community in Goris.
One significant recent collaboration was with the city of Vienna, which has become a major supporter of local cultural events. Such a partnership brought international attention to Goris and provided emerging artists with a broader platform to showcase their work.
Cultural development in Syunik has also attracted attention from Goris State University. The university held a conference in 2022 to celebrate its 55th anniversary. The conference labeled Syunik a center of education and culture. Hayk Badalyan, the general director of sustainable development investment funds, highlighted that culture and education are “the main potential of the state and key foundations for development.”
Valeri Khachatryan, a respected 66-year-old professor of art at Shirak State University, reflected on the profound significance of cultural development in Syunik. “Art is universal,” he mused, “and it deserves our attention wherever and whenever.” In a region rich in history, where culture and education have flourished, he believes it is vital to preserve and honor this legacy.
Yet he acknowledged a troubling reality: many talented artists remain unrecognized, their contributions stifled by a lack of support for cultural initiatives. Despite these challenges, Khachatryan finds hope in the resilient spirit of Syunik’s artists, whose creativity continues even in the aftermath of conflict, revealing a character forged in strength and determination.
The expert reflected that the cultural situation in Syunik stands apart from other regions of Armenia, as it is uniquely shaped by its breathtaking natural beauty, inspiring a wealth of creative talent. “This region is home to resilient artists who face an uncertain future with courage, yet their vital work yearns for greater support from the government to flourish,” he said.
A lively city
Martirosyan’s cave is not just a favorite place for art lovers but also a source of inspiration for further creativity and artistic flourishing. The veteran painter is delighted when artists visit him every now and then in the cave while he works, among them his students and colleagues.
They include Mane Minasyan, a student at the newly-established art department at Goris State University. The 21-year-old is preparing for her first open-air exhibition in her hometown, thanks to the town’s partnership with Vienna. She says she inherited her artistic talent from her father. “Unlike me, he never had the opportunity to study art formally,” she said.
While deeply committed to her art, Minasyan also studies criminology. She believes in the importance of dedication and the impact art can have on a community.
“Art is my priority,” she said, while acknowledging the challenge of balancing her artistic pursuits with the need for a more stable job. Nonetheless, she feels fortunate. “I’m happy to have the chance to do it in my dear city,” she said.
Set up in 2017, largely due to Martirosyan’s efforts, the art department at Goris State University has encouraged the younger generation to stay and create art in Goris. Martirosyan laments he never had the opportunity to study art in his hometown, so making it a reality for future generations is one of his goals. The new art department ensures the coming generation can study and cultivate their artistic talents in Goris.
Beyond providing the foundation for Minasyan’s education, Martirosyan has also offered a gentle touch of mentorship, assisting her in organizing her upcoming exhibition. They often spend hours talking about art or collaborating on projects, losing track of time in their shared passion.
During the summer, they venture to the cave gallery together, painting side by side and helping each other refine their work. Their shared love for Goris and its community is deeply intertwined with their artistic endeavors.
“I believe that young artists will bring their unique colors to the city, making Goris known and celebrated for its own merits,” Martirosyan said. “Goris is not just a border city. It’s a lively city.”
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