Justin Aprahamian Is Chef Personified

MILWAUKEE, Wisc.—You happen to be a well-known Armenian chef in America, and suddenly you get a call from the president of Armenia who wants to visit your home for dinner. If you’re Justin Aprahamian, the menu would be nothing out of the ordinary. Simply, the same as any traditional Armenian meal. “You can’t go wrong with a lamb shish kebab and rice pilaf dinner,” he says. “A side of cheese beoreg (turnover) and gatah (sweet roll) for dessert. It holds a very special place in my heart and I love sharing that.” Aprahamian is still on top of his culinary world these days after landing the top prize in a contest featuring the best chefs in America. He took home the coveted Beard Award as the best chef in the Midwest. The owner of Sanford Restaurant lived up to his hype as the sole nominee from Wisconsin, beating out other contenders known for their craft. He took the stage at Lincoln Center to accept his prestigious award and told the crowd, “It’s very surreal to see chefs I’m inspired by on a daily basis. We have a good spirit, a good collaboration in the kitchen. The award is nice but we need to get in there and push even harder. No resting on our laurels.” Justin Aprahamian is a 31-year-old culinary expert who started with an uncle in the catering business. An older brother was working for him and needed an extra hand so Justin tagged along. At the first party, he was assigned to making fruit platters. At age 13, he picked up a small allowance for his efforts. The more he worked, the better he got at it. The James Beard Award is a huge honor in this industry, much like an Oscar in the movie world. “It takes a lot of very consistent work at a high level,” he notes. “What makes it so special is that it comes from peers in my industry and nothing can take that away.” Aprahamian dedicates the award first to the former restaurant owners at Sanford for being such effective mentors, then to his family, all the way to grandparents. “They taught me so much about priorities, hard work, and ethics,” he maintains. “They’ve given me all the support I’ve ever needed.” The days are long and often laborious. With a baby due in September, Aprahamian’s juggling act will take another turn: He also has a brewery project going and works a station on the line every night. Should a customer be disgruntled, he’s got that covered, too. “Mistakes will happen,” he says. “It’s how you handle it that meets resolve and defines your reputation. Diffuse the situation before it escalates.” Aprahamian sees a strong correlation between food and his Armenian identity. It’s inherent to the Armenian tradition, he believes, and is the centerpiece of every ethnic gathering. “Our functions seem to embrace and revolve around great cuisine. It might be part of the reason I gravitated toward food and entertainment.” His great-grandfather left Armenia and his grandfather was born here. The Armenian side comes from his dad. “My grandfather could be classified as a role model,” he points out. “He was an amazing individual who accomplished so many amazing things. He represented his family and traditions so well and passed it on to us.” Aprahamian lists food as a big part of his Armenian interest. He’s collected as many family recipes as possible, reading cookbooks and learning from other experts. He’s got some Armenian friends who are also involved in the industry. As to the Genocide Centennial next year, “It would be nice to see politics set aside and the genocide given its recognition,” he says. “I’m still in shock over how it has passed by so many history classes.” Whether it’s an ordinary diner, athlete, musician, or big-name politician, Aprahamian has catered to them all. Among his guests was the Dalai Lama at a luncheon he prepared some years ago in Madison. So what would be his desert island meal? Not what you might think. “I could eat tacos several times a week, so that would be a candidate,” he reveals. “There’s something about Mexican food that I enjoy. One of my favorite comfort foods is my mom’s meatloaf.” The job doesn’t come without stress. Aprahamian relieves his anxieties with music, be it his collection of records or attending a concert. He also frequents antique shops and flea markets. A decade from now, Aprahamian could gain added notoriety with a company he’s started called Minds Brewing. That project seems to have gained impetus and he aims to make it work. Aprahamian bought his Sanford restaurant in 2012 and it’s maintained a 4-star rating ever since. The establishment focuses on seasonal cooking and includes occasional dishes inspired by his Armenian heritage. As for motivating others in the food business, Aprahamian offers this advice: “Be patient. Pay your dues. Respect where you came from and don’t assume anything. Graduating from culinary school doesn’t make you a chef.”

Justin Aprahamian Is Chef Personified

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Tom Vartabedian

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Tom Vartabedian

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