While shopping at the Vanadzor food market, I heard a butcher arranging meat say something that caught my attention.
“Don’t throw it away. Keep it for Azat.”
I was curious about who Azat was, the person for whom the butcher was keeping the membrane of a cow’s heart. But what intrigued me even more was what he needed it for?
Armenia is a country where you can simply ask a stranger who Azat is, and they will do everything they can to help you find him. But because the covered mark



