YEREVAN—“Menk an-o-tee yenk.”
These simple words sent my heart stomping as I left my apartment in Yerevan one afternoon in May.
In my hand was a plastic bag containing the remnants of moldy bread headed for a dumpster nearby. Outside, a father and mother were camped out in a terrace by a small pavilion they were calling home. Nearby were two small children playing, presumably their own.
It was a gut-wrenching scene—one that left an indelible impression of conditions that were less favorable than others you might encounter in the big city.
“The bread is no good,” I told the man. “It’s rotted.”
“Don’t matter,” he answered. “We are hungry.”
And with that, I handed over the bag and dipped into my pocket for a handout.
“Take this and buy yourself a good loaf of bread.”
The day before, I visited a village where people were living inside lean-tos and makeshift shelters. Others had set up homes in abandoned buildings with little or no resources.
At Lake Sevan, a derelict was singing for survival and a young boy was being admonished for not selling his allotment of postcards.
At Etchmiadzin, a forlorn woman was crouched against the majestic cathedral. My heart bled for her.
“I’m not well,” she told me, prompting another dip into my pocket.
“I don’t want your money,” she shot back. “Instead, you can light a candle for me. Pray for me.”
The scene reminded me of a previous trip to Armenia three years prior in which we had gone to Shushi and encountered a humble street-wanderer sitting on a curbstone with a paper bag containing his belongings.
He asked me for money. I couldn’t refuse.
“I want to light a candle in that church,” he said, pointing across the way to a wondrous cathedral called Soorp Amenapergich.
I appeared skeptical, until I went inside the sanctuary and there before me was the beggar lighting his candle in prayer. He was telling the truth.
Poverty is rampant in Armenia. You cannot escape it. But one thing rests assured. No matter how bad the crisis, no matter where people live, no matter how scant the food, this is home. This is Armenia and there’s no alternative.
It’s the old life prior to the Industrial Revolution we’ve all seen. They don’t need cell phones and computers, fancy homes and cars—just old values and hard work.
When I see these young kids in schools dressed in uniform and addressing you properly, it’s something you wouldn’t necessarily suspect from a Third World Country. No matter how bleak the environment, the children appeared well maintained.
My first venture there in 2006 was far different than the second this past April. My wife and I brought along $100 in singles with the idea that we would patronize the needy population.
Others in our tour group were equally as generous. Not candy, or toys but cash. In two weeks time, we exhausted our allotment. At the time, I didn’t realize that handing out an American dollar in some remote village would be useless.
Where would they redeem it?
More than the children, it bothered me to see the elderly make an advance. With kids, we were told that giving away money would be teaching them bad habits — that they should be taught to sustain for themselves and not live off a free handout.
The elderly tend to be more persistent in their character. Some offer you wares. Others nothing at all. They don’t let go very easily on the street.
However modest the means, it’s called survival, and it’s something the government must address in order to preserve the tourist trade.
Yerevan is booming. High-rise apartments are sprouting up like mushrooms inside the inner-city belt, catering to the affluent. Yet, 20 miles outside the capital, people are living from hand-to-mouth. There is no economy.
A 50 percent unemployment rate is hardly a comfort zone. What few jobs that exist offer a pittance for the most part. Professionals are earning what somebody on welfare may be getting in this country. People are learning to live more with less.
Despite the extreme poverty, the table is usually sagging with food and hospitality is open to one and all. There are no strangers in Armenia, usually friends waiting to meet. Just pass by a home and an invitation becomes automatic.
What bothered me more than anything this time was an incident that occurred at the Yerevan Opera House. Determined to get a ticket for Khachaturian’s “Spartacus,” I arrived at the box office brimming with ecstasy.
I’ve listened to the ballet repeatedly, much as I’ve done with his “Gayane Suite.” The news was grim.
“Sorry, we’re all sold out,” said the clerk.
I asked about another concert and was told there was one that very evening featuring the Leningrad Symphony with an appearance by a noted Armenian diva. Not “Spartacus” but certainly an alternative. Upon inquiring about admission, I was aghast.
“That would be $30,000 drams, and includes a reception later,” the woman replied.
Some fast figuring told me that was more than $100 a ticket American money, given the 3.75 exchange rate for a dram. I refused the offer, packed away my sentiment, and off I went toward a coffee house.
On the way, an impoverished woman asked for money and I felt in an overly-generous mood. I wound up treating her to a meal inside the Marriott.
Come to find out, she’s lived in Yerevan all her life and this was her first visit inside the hotel. She gave me a hug for my money. All of a sudden, my spirit in humanity had been restored.
Tom Vartabedian
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I am struck by the extreme dissonance between the reality expressed in this article and the attitude of many Armenians in the USA. Here in the US we find people who thump their chest bravely asserting we must not open the border–we must not talk to the Turks–we can carry the burden of unremitting poverty–we must not bend or compromise. Of course, they are sitting comfortably and safely in the USA while expressing these brave sentiments. How tragic for the people of Armenia.
So how will the openning of the blockade and forgetting the Genocide help these poor people. All it will do is bring more profit to the importers of goods from turkey and Europe. Prices will drop by a small amount which will do little to help the poor. Lets first get rid of corruption, greed and incompitance among our leaders (i use that term loosely they are more like reactors to moves made by others). A weak corrupt government will not be able to manage and protect people especially the poor from the turkic business invasion that will follow. Cheap goods and foods flowiing into the country will reduce local jobs and hurt the poor who normally work in factories and farms. So Harb you are wrong us in the US are most concerned about the people of Armenia. If the people don’t stay there is no country to fight for but if the people are overrrun by a hostile turk country who pretends to play nice( and apperantly very good at fooling the “leaders”) then then too there will be no country to fight for.
Think it’s time Armenians wake up and stop lighting candles. Obviously, it does not work.
Mr. Vartabedian — Thank you for your story. Your photo of the woman filling buckets of water in the village of Dogh reminds me so much of my grandmother. Her Armenian resiliance and determination was remarkable, and she would be heartsick to find that Armenia is still facing such trials!
Leo:
So what your saying without any real proof is that if the borders open, prices on goods will drop but not enough for the poor to afford to purchase them…but will drop enough to cause unemployment among the people working in factories and farms. The basis for this economic analysis is what ? Do you know what goods/products are actually produced in Armenia that Turkish goods are going to undermine? Has it occurred to you that its the price of Russian imports that is going to drop because they will be faced with Turkish competition.
Harb is correct, while the focus of the diaspora is the recognition of the Genocide, whereas the people living there are suffering, ask the people in Tom’s article how much their lives will change of the Turkey recognizes the genocide.
Leo, I can agree with the need to rid Armenia of corruption both public and private.
Developing good governance and opening the border are both necessary for Armenia to prosper and become a viable state.
On the other hand, I can’t ascribe to the idea that denying our poor cheaper and more basic necessities really doesn’t make a difference. Doesn’t make a difference to who? It apparently doesn’t make much difference to those who enjoy the bounty of the USA.
When steps to provide cheaper and more plentiful food for poor Armenians is not acceptable because it means Turkish business people might profit, then the threat to Armenia’s future is in the mirror.
When denying benefit to Turks is more important than sustaining those Armenians living in poverty
then we need to begin questioning our ideology.
You state that the poor of Armenia need protection from Turks offering cheaper food and basic necessities. I agree that the poor need protection but I am not sure it is from business people who offer cheaper food and more trade.
I had tears in my eyes when I read this article.
How can the government allow this to happen to its own citizens? How long will these poor people have to endure this abuse?
I agree 100% with Dr Leo about getting rid of corruptions, greed and thinking only for their own political stomachs. I have so many names for our government and they are not pretty names. However, I am tired of them taking advantage of its own citizens and treating them as animals…
Turkey is very very smart. It has a very good plan to take over Armenian one stone at a time. By pretending to be open to friendly relations by using a plan is a hidden agenda of destroying Armenia and getting what they want. The Armenian government stupidly believing the false promises fell into the trap which will continue to sqeeze Armenia until either become fed up and fight back or simply lose our land.
I am not a politician and don’t understand alot about politics.. but what is there not to see and understand.. that Armenian is being played by Turkey just like a cat playing with its captured mouse.
To our govt: Wake up and smell the destruction…have guts and stand up for your country.. protect your people and protect your history
To our Armenians: Wake up and stand together.. Help each other.. Be each other’s supporters.. Do not let your own down and then step on them.. Pick them up and brush the dust.. ONLY working together that we will become successful..Only loving and supporting each other we will overcome obstacles…
Armenia forever..
I agree with RootArmo. One cannot forget the Russian involvement in Armenia. When you say Armenia must stand up and protect its people, you are forgetting that Armenia is not quite independent. It is in the hands of Russia, who controls its borders! RootArmo makes a point that I didn’t realize before, it is Russia that would lose out economically in opening the borders with Turkey, not Armenia. So, the leaders of Armenia do what they’re told by powers outside, not by their own people, as is the case in any third world dictatorships. As long as Armenia has poor relations with its neighbors, the longer it will have to rely on Russia to protect it.
How far have we come? Are we witnessing a new beginning to the end of Armenia?
This OSCE crap, Russia, U.S.A,France, Azerbaijan and Turkey determining the future of Artsakh. Just like the 20’s all over again. The world and regional players swinging sledgehammers on our borders once again. The Turks and Azeris have nothing but time on there sides as they continue to coil and constrict around our lands.
We need to bring to the table Western Armenia and Nakchivan. PUT IT ALL ON THE TABLE! KARS, ARARAT, ANI etc. TURKS have conditions, WE HAVE CONDITIONS!
Opening the current Turkish/Armenia border RECOGNIZES that BORDER. WE MUST NOT ACCEPT THIS. WE must not sell out…….. IT may be time once again for all those chest thumpers to lock and load on the next flight to the revolution. If our current Government signs away Artsakh, civil war breaks out or a coup, don’t be fooled it can happen. I’d much rather see Turks and Azeris in the crosshairs than our own blood. With our borders restored properly, then you will see peace and prosperity all over Armenia.
Instead of patriotism in words, come to Armenia, invest and help tangibly!
The Afrikaner/Boers created a first world country in less than 100 years, despite the British concentration camps and the black tribes murdering whites and each other. The Armenians had thousands of years to build something, and they had not suffered anything that the Afrikaner / Boers did not suffer. So, why are they so poor?
if the Boers could build South Africa in such a short period, what is wrong with the armenians?
Dear Tom et al,
My 13th pilgrimage to RA.2 to Artsakh. Poverty is everywhere in the world ,incl.of the very rich G8, or G20 states. RA/Artsatkh and indeed Javakhk should be under our focus.And this despite RA receiving non returnable grants and or IMF ,this that Int’l Bank entity ,country loans.Thos are channeled through officialdom and part of it funnelled into…
What we need is a “National investment Trust Fund’..my this advocacy through a 100,000 strong Professional Colleagues ,their associations could be the best venue.For our rich also, or the well to do or even middle upper class, are getting tired of “Fund raisings”. To this I have referred to many a time and now at the Nov.20th Symposium, slated at L.A. with our dignitarires…is to meet and discuss “UNIY” and related issues,see articles and ads in this respect in our press,please.
Some friends tried hard to begin a yet another such fund raising from grass roots or from bottom,saying even if our Babik mamiks each give one dollar, we shall make it.
Hogwash even if a million or 3 gave each that much …what do we get, a few millions,similar to the Armenia Fund ,which no doubt is good in absence of the aforementioned my Theses.Just enough to keep all busy in RA/Artsakh and do some small touch up jobs etc.,
Or we do it or we don’t.Just sent an email to the organizing committe my “Scheme ‘for a friends to read thereat. Meanwhile,other such called Western armenian Congress in paris has mushroomed near 2 yrs ago… this also with good intentions but …somehow our accoutants should get to work and explain the folliwng>/ to the pub;lic/////
If our 5/7 magnates, the NUCLEUS, I call it, each input ,say 150/200 million dollars to working capital ,to establish the FUN, Investment fund governed by their monetary experts and then,followed by a hundred or so millionairs chipping in each say 5/10 miillion dollars then further down to reach those who can only invest a thousand dollars.This latter close to 95000 Professionals in different work types.then WE CAN TGALK,rather our money can .WE shall keep it in geneva, the Fund , i.e. spo as the Russian Armenian, s.Am. or North American or Euro Armenian Middles East can HAVE CONFIDENCE ,in a country free of tax and as an NGO.We can then primarily organize the Repatriation,then loan not give outright to small medium entreprenerus ,farmers through National bank of Armenia and the others under same,AGAINST MORTGAGING THEIR small plot of farmland or workshop etc., for 15 years at 2/3%.The Fund itssel;f oin Swizerland Geneva, by the experts invested in sevure Government Bonds rendering some 5/6% or say even 4.5%.difference for investment purposes after [piling up on the CAPITASL at least One percent, as reserve.This does not take a magician Financial expert to do. Qustion is our people,you me are ready for it ,then we can have a committe, such a harut Sassounian go see K.kerkorian another Ms louise S.Manoogian ,another to vatch manoukian in U.K.another one or two person to Ernekian in B/Aires, Cafesjian in Minnesota..etc., once the Niucleus is formed IT WILL INS[PIRE CONFIDENCE…capiche…or no
oh hell I got tired of advocating this for over 30 yeasrs….
though I don’t give up untill my demise…
Hama Haigagani sIRO
Gaytzag palandjian,ex/Board member of First Armenian congres,elected to it b y 380 participants not by sself or friends///
This part is essentially political and I ask all to excuse my veery clumsy previous post with many an error,whether typographical or otherwise.
I agree to above post, that we should also demand our Western Armenian Lands and Nakhijevan in parallel with Shahumian,this ours but Azeris captured and other such inclusive of Autonomy for javakhk.For some do not realize our wonderful neighbours are accustomed to this type reponse.Indeed, we were not in a position to act and say as just said,but then now after 70 years of good harsh sovier rule,discipline,plus these 20 Western type Democratic rule,we are not the “Ermeni” raya, thus referrred to by our adversary.The main adversary,great Turkey…unfortuvnately made so by you know who.We must stand our ground firm in other words like the good compatriot above says,othjerwise they will think we are weak.No We are not you s.o bbing..or sobbing..we are there to be counted with. Saroyans dream has been realized not by TWO, who meet buty but 7 million,say half of these ACTIVE OR EVEN 1/3rd,,,what do we get File.
WE must create the Rank and File through the PCA’s prof.Colleagues association 5 on the scene mthe Bar,Thje engineers and sciences,The Health medical,The |Sportive the jewellers..we need ten others,that i keep writing about.This is where our NIRHOGH HSGA is the slumbering Giant, not 3/4% Spiritual and politicos,with all respect to them bot..but we need the MOBILIZATION OF THE PCA’s.
Yes ,next April 24 not begging but on the Street demanding BLOOOD MONEY first,for that has precedent,then one day when we hav e the “nat’l Invest.Trust Fund’ we can talk in a different manner..
best rgds to all
g.p
E.and omission excepted, i type fast
best rgds
“The Armenians had thousands of years to build something, and they had not suffered anything that the Afrikaner / Boers did not suffer. So, why are they so poor? … what is wrong with the armenians?”
E. Venter-Ross, whoever you are, what a pompous person you must be and what exactly is your point?
Furst of all, Armenians starts with capital letter A. Secondly, I wonder how much you know about Armenian history, what they have built, and how much they have suffered, to show up here and allow yourself talk like that. If you are so interested about Armenians I suggest that you educate yourself, first, then question our capabilities.