Each time I return from Western Armenia, the reaction I get from family and friends is the same: Why? Why do I subject myself to the emotionally draining experience of viewing first-hand the destruction of Armenian cultural heritage? Viewing my pictures only deepens their conviction that they could not make such a trip.
Beyond the emotional strain, many Armenians view traveling to Western Armenia as counter to our national interests. One argument is that such travel by Armenians contributes to the Turkish tourism industry. Another argument against documenting the remaining evidence of Armenian heritage is that it exposes these structures to further destruction. Lastly, many will never feel secure traveling to the region as long as it is part of Turkey.
It is not my intent to dispel these reasons as unjustified. Quite honestly, travel to Western Armenia is not for everyone. However, I think it is important to explain why I, personally, have made this journey a number of times over the past three years.
The first reason is rather clear. I spend significant time researching and documenting the previously Armenian villages of Western Armenia. Many of the names of the villages have been changed and a large number of villages no longer exist. There is only so much research that can be done through books and other sources; field research is a critical component. The history of the villages as well as the significant Armenian structures that remain are retained by the local population. Oftentimes, it is the only way to verify the location as well as the current state of these monuments.
On a recent trip, we were in a village just on the other side of a hill from the Armenian monastery we were looking for. We asked a local child where the Armenian church was, but he didn’t know what we were talking about. Finally, he said, “You mean where the gold is?” Time and time again, in every location, there is evidence of the treasure-seekers that operated with total disregard for the damage they inflicted on the structures. This is not a new phenomenon; it has been going on for centuries on these lands. Today, it is in search of Armenian gold. A hundred years ago it was in search of Hittite, Assyrian, and Urartuan gold.
Where exactly do they think the Armenians got all this gold and other wealth? The villages have not changed in 100 years, and all of the resources available to Armenians then are still available in the villages today. It is not as if the Armenians had a gold mine. The gold the locals search for does not exist. The small amount of wealth that industrious Armenians were able to miraculously accumulate has long since disappeared. I do have one hope, though: that each church and monastery had important records and that, one day, some of these lost treasures will be found in the homes of villagers and returned to their rightful owners.
Some will point to these few examples as evidence that traveling to Armenian monasteries and churches only promotes the notion that treasure is buried there. This impression is further strengthened when traveling with detailed maps, as I do. Yet, for over 60 years, very few Armenians ever traveled to Western Armenia, and it is not as if Armenian monuments were all preserved during those years. Quite the contrary, hundreds of churches, schools, and monasteries were destroyed during those years without witnesses.
Yes, the destruction continues unabated, but by traveling year after year, the destruction can be documented and exposed. Exposing it has raised awareness in important circles. It is yet to be seen if that will yield positive results. However, ignoring the destruction has not stopped it. That is undeniable.
Recently, I read two exceptional articles, one by Varak Ketsemanian (“Dersim: A Facet of the Silent Revolution in Turkey”) and the other by Raffi Bedrosyan (“Remembering the Dead and Living Victims of the Armenian Genocide”). Both touched on another important aspect of traveling to Western Armenia—the Armenians who still remain on that land.
There are many things that have changed over the past decade in Turkey: the murder of Hrant Dink, the publication of Fethiye Çetin’s book My Grandmother, the reopening of Surp Giragos church in Diyarbakir. Each of these events, and others, have contributed to an awakening of “Armenianness” on our ancestral lands. Maybe it is not so much an awakening as it is allowing a presence that never ended to once again assert itself.
While the movement is still small—almost unnoticeable to most—it is growing and our continued presence on the land is an important component to process. Personally, it is very rewarding for me to meet those that have retained their connection to Armenians through the decades since the genocide. In fact, I view this as just one component of the demographic crisis Armenians face. There is the exodus from the Republic of Armenia, the turmoil in important diasporan communities (Iraq, Syria, and Lebanon), the assimilation of Armenians in the diaspora, and the “hidden” and assimilated thousands in Western Armenia. We cannot ignore any one of these.
Finally, related to this last point, there is the mantra of a free, independent, and united Armenia. I believe this to be an achievable goal. It is one thing to not believe it to be possible, it is another to believe yet have no plan to achieve it. For me, the way is clear: For the Armenian presence to truly return to our lands, it is critical to assimilate back into Armenian culture the thousands that still live on the land. They are thirsting for it!
If we remain absent, think of the message that is sent to the government in Turkey and the people on the ground. I go because it is important for me to show that even though I was born in the diaspora, of diasporan parents, after 100 years I am still tied to that land. I cannot be separated from it!
When I step foot on the land, see the mountains, drink the water…I feel my blood is from the soil and my ancestors are calling.
George Aghjayan
Latest posts by George Aghjayan (see all)
- MP Andranik Kocharyan proposes a list of victims of the Armenian Genocide – why and how? - April 17, 2024
- Genealogy: “Useful in the toolkit of genocide education” - May 24, 2023
- Levon Boghosian: A story “both unique and universal” - March 9, 2023
And what about assimilating the millions of Armenians living outside the Armenian homeland (both present day Armenia and occupied Western Armenia) back into an Armenian reality? Those so-called hidden Armenians in Western Armenia have enough to worry about beside outside meddling from the Diaspora. Want to make a difference, on a personal level and serve as an example to others? The answer is relocation to that remaining troubled sliver of rocky land called the Republic of Armenia.
Wonderful piece! It is ironic that they search for gold completely unaware that the true gold of the Armenian Highlands was mass-murdered and death-marched into oblivion.
thank you! excellent article.
I am pleased that George Aghjayan is calling for recognition to be paid to Western Armenia. We must also continue to recognize the Armenians who came from that region. Western Armenia should be included in the global considerations regarding Armenia, and the Armenians in diaspora. We have a duty to remember where the groundswell of nationalism came from and to respect that memory.
I commend you on your work as I believe it is vital. I also admire your self control. On a personal note… if I were to visit our Ancestral Homeland, the homes of my family from Mousa Lerr and Bursa, I am confident that I would end up in a Turkish prison. I am confident emotion would catch up with me and I’d do something I’d regret. The very thought of traveling via a major Turkish port, hearing that language, answering questions, disturbs me.
Good and true article. And nice/emotional picture. True: sitting on your couch and chewing your past won’t help. If you want to beat the turks, you have to do as they do.
It is known, by many people in Turkey like me, that the capital of economical development in the beginning of 20th century was based on the confiscated wealth of Armenian people living than in this country.Consequently Turkish government/s, as a state power, has to accept/recognize the Armenian Genocide committed by its killers in those years.
Thank you for keeping up with our past history. I am the son of Armenian parents from Marash and Adana whose parents (my grand parents) had considerable wealth and a large section of land. My father went to visit his birthplace and found out their house occupied by Turks.
There are millions of Turkish-Armenians in present day Turkey who don’t even know they are Armenians. These are the children of Armenian orphans and kidnapped Armenian girls who were forcefully taken by Turkish/Kurdish families. We must find a way to reach out and help these Armenians. An ordinary Turk that we see could be an Armenian without knowing it. Keep up the good work.
Oktay Etiman, I appreciate your reasonable and straight forward statement.
This is a fantastic article that brings all the issues of western, historical Armenia into focus. It is quite interesting to note that local Turks and Kurds seem to still hunt for buried gold, but what they don’t realize is that the gold was actually the Armenian people themselves, who used many thousands of years of living on that land, tilling that land, surviving untold invaders and serving many different masters to create a civilization that goes back into pre-history. They were the geese who created golden eggs for the sultans. They also don’t seem to know that over a period of probably 10,000 years, the indigenous Armenians created monumental architecture, art, science, music and writing systems, negotiated with foreign dignitaries and generals, developed systems of law, finance and religion, and adapted to changes on the world stage. What an accomplishment! Like fragile blades of grass in the path of elephants, Armenia’s is a tale of survival in the face of insurmountable and overpowering odds. This ability, developed over millennia, is the true gold of Armenia, because as we all know, when times get truly bad and everything is taken from you, you cannot eat dirt or gold, you cannot listen to gold, drink gold or get warm with gold. Gold cannot provide you with love and humanity. As Saroyan very smartly observed, the true Armenian gold is ephemeral, his words – ‘Oor vor hayreni yerker guh lusveen, hon hayrenika voghch eh’, also say something else that those Turkish and Kurdish kids will never know.
Karekin, at least in their searching for ‘hidden or lost treasure’ they unwittingly acknowledge that something (someone) is missing.
I agree with Mr. Kevork Hagopian. There are indeed (part)Armenians in Turkey who do not know about their family history. I was one of them until last year. Since I know that my paternal great-grandma was an Armenian lady from Keghi (present day Bingöl) I am eager to learn more and more about the Armenian culture and made Armenian friends in the meantime in Holland where I live now. It is such a feeling of richness for me to connect with my Armenian blood as this was stolen from me without me even being aware of. I hope more people in Turkey will research their family history as the results will surely be surprising. Whether the Armenians in diaspora want to travel to their historic homeland or not is a matter I can not judge about as it is a very personal choice but I regret the absence of Armenians who had to leave their homeland! It is painful.
Do you know your great-grandmother’s name? There are people in America who are descendents of people from Keghi.
Nilly,
Thank you for your comments. I think you meant to say that Kughi is now part of the Bingol province, not that it is now called Bingol. Kughi is present day Kigi. Today’s Bingol was known as Chapakchour/Jabaghjour to Armenians and as Chevlik to Kurds.
Also, when an Armenian states they are from these areas, it could be they are from one of the smaller villages of the district as opposed to the central town itself. There were over 50 villages in the district of Kughi where Armenians (over 20,000) lived at the time of the Genocide.
Thank you again for writing, your perspective and insights are important,
George Aghjayan
@Mr. Aghjayan, thank you for the details regarding the region. I value all information that I receive.
@Reader, her name was Pupush but unfortunately I have no information about her family name and this makes my research terribly difficult. I even contacted the Turkish ministry of interior to request the registers of persons (both pre and republic period) but since 3 years they seem not to extend such info without a legal reason. She indeed had 2 brothers who immigrated to the USA. I’d not want to bother the rest of the readers with my story so if you wish I’d happily give you the details perhaps via an email. Any information that leads me to my great-grandma is invaluable for me.
Excellent article George.
Some people can read and learn. I have to experience in order to learn.
Having traveled throughout Turkey (Anatolia) many times, I became more Armenian when I saw and heard of the contributions that Armenians had made to society.
Walking on the cobblestones that my mother had walked on in her childhood, made me feel the terrible anguish she and many others endured as they were led away from their village of Efkere, not knowing where they were going.
Since then, I have made many Turkish friends, primarily friends of Hrant Dink, who recognize the genocide. Many Turks knew nothing of Armenians ten years ago until Hrant brought it forth with his Agos newspaper.
Turkey is in the midst of change and a growing number of young Turks commemorate April 24th in cities around Turkey.
I encourage Armenians to visit Turkey and hopefully grow to have a greater respect of our forefathers, as I have, and to help raise awareness of human rights violations in Turkey.
Armen Aroyan from California conducts excellent tours and is a walking encyclopedia of knowledge. Call and go.
Praises who writes articles on our behalf…
We all should praise them…
Praise to their efforts…
That arrives from their deep honest soul…
praises to all…
Help them to write more…
Civilized world should know what unlucky Armenians lost …
We lost million and more lives
We lost countless lands…
The civilized world respects the thieves
Who did the devil work…
Are they asking them to do more…?
Now in Syria…they are repeating
what they did a century ago…
Can anyone disagree if any thing has changed since then…!!!
Sylva
Dear George,
nice peace, even though I don’t share your optimism about ever having a “free and independent Armenia”, sounds like as far from reality as the idea of “tsovits tsov Hayastan”… Sorry. But I hope you will publish your researches in a map with the names of villages you have identified appear clearly along with their modern names. We miss this kind of work and often scholars have no idea what the locations mentioned in historical sources correspond to in modern Turkey.
This article also makes it very clear that the genocide wasn’t just about mass murder, but about well planned grand theft on a massive, unprecedented scale that continues on the local, personal level, as well, even today.
In 2012, I traveled to Western Armenia. That was the 100th year of my father’s birth. I wanted to see and touch the land where he and my grandparents had lived and gone to school. While there was a huge disappointment of not seeing Shabin Karahissar, the place of his birth, due to tour mismanagement, I, my sister & cousin, did have brief visits to Sivas, Marsovan & Amasia. Yes, there were mixed emotions visiting those towns, but it was also very meaningful. On the rest of our tour, seeing many sights, I did return home longing for our land, our lake, our mountain and our towns to be free from Turkish identity. Thank you George for your article and thoughts.
George: thanks for your telephone call this evening (Oct 9) I enjoyed talking with you about Kay Redman (nee “Katherine McClaren” as named by the orphanage) By the way, my brother and father also were actuaries!
George Aghjayan- Great article. You are doing/continuing what Bishiop Servantzyantz was doing in the 19th century. Do you have a list of the original names of the Armenian villages, churches, monasteries, structures, etc. with their associated/present names? Has anyone compiled such a list?
as if armenians as a population werent already a small portion of the world, western armenians are its minority. its actually quite depressing to think that the western armenian culture will essentially vanish or be next to non existent in the next 25-30 years through assimilation. look i completely understand armenians are too small of a population to say this, but as a western armenian i simply have a different mindset and im sure its because of our upbringings in a different environment. im not saying western and eastern are different people or that one is more of a “true armenian”, im just saying that the “feeling of being home” probably doesn’t resonate with a western Armenian in the current nation of Armenia as it would in our historic homelands. When i think of this, i always think “what if the genocide never happened, would i be living in turkey? would it be armenia? would I come from a lineage of family who had generations of wealth thru inheritance?” but then i realize that “what if” is not “what is”. western armenians should preserve their unique culture and also acculturate with their eastern brothers and sisters and create one central armenian.
Jay, I hear you, and agree with your thinking.
If you look closely at countries and nations today, you notice distinct cultural differences amongst people from distant areas within the borders of a same country: France, Italy, Spain, etc. A Parisian is very different than a Marseillan, Milanese-Napolitan-Roman, Madrilene-Basque-Catalan, etc.
However, at the end of the day, they are all proud to be part of their respective nations. I believe Armenians are in a similar situation, except that we have lost our lands and the link to our ancestral home. In some situations, I believe we even have a stronger connection to our nationality than the above mentioned, given that we are 3rd-4th generation diasporans…
Mr. Aghjayan, thank you for this article. The last sentence made my day.
Great article,
a single hand does not make clapping sounds, you meed two and in this case more…..
It’s important that we Armenians always remember Western Armenia.